The PCT Talk is at the Chewelah Public Library on wednesday Dec 11th at 5pm.

Happy Trails!!!!

http://thelosc.org/home

PCT Talk/Slideshow in Deer Park - press release

Welcome to the first event planned where you can join me for an evening of stunning photos and stories from the Pacific Crest Trail.  I am hoping to put together similar events in Colville and Chewelah in the near future but this is the first one that came together.  Hope to see y'all there!!!!

When: Saturday Nov 2nd @ 6pm

Where: Church in the Wildwood: 5810 West Dahl Road, Deer Park

Snacks will be provided and please bring something to share if you can!

Please contact Laura at 509.844.6143 or talags@gmail.com with any questions.

Happy Trails!!!

http://thechurchinthewildwood.blogspot.com/

Last Steps North

WOOO-HOOOOO!!!

After months of walking every day, my journey to CANADA is complete.

The Northern Cascade Mountains were an absolutely stunning finale and easily rivaled the High Sierras in both remoteness and scale; a truly awesome experience. The weather had co-operated wonderfully for most of the Glacier Peak Wilderness and north of Stehekin but just a day before finishing a huge cold front came through and made sure to remind me what the great north is supposed to be like in the fall.  Cold, damp, and wet.  It is time to head back to civilization and start planning my next adventure!!!!

Please stay tuned for an announcement regarding the time and location of my Talk and Slideshow Presentation to wrap up the fundraiser for the Coleville Valley Animal Sanctuary.  It will be a fun evening of stories and incredible photos from the trail.  If there is anyone out there wishing for me to come talk to a community group, etc please feel free to email me at talags@gmail.com and we may be able to work something out.

Thank you again for following in my incredible journey!

Peace, Love, and Happy Trails!!!!!

~Beads

On the monument marking the US/Canadian border

Pisatan Wilderness

Stehekin, WA ~80 miles to CANADA

Washington is big, beautiful, and generally lacking of internet access. Apologies for such a short entry but I am lucky to even be on a computer in this stunning little town that is completely off the grid.  Nestled on the northwest shore of Lake Chelan, the only way to get here is on a ferry or on foot.  Cell phones do not work and the village bakery is the hub of news.  I have 80 miles to the border and another 8 until I reach Manning Park, a mountain resort close by and the center of celebrations for all the hikers whom find themselves out of trail to hike north.  This part of the trail through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and Glacier Peak Wilderness has been absolutely incredible and stunning every day with beautiful weather.  With a small weather system coming in this weekend it should make things interesting and I may finally get a true taste of what the Pacific Northwest weather is like.

 Happy Trails and Peace and Love y'all!!!!!

Rough and wonderful

Greetings from Snoqualmie Pass!

Firstly, a HUGE THANK YOU to Dragonfly and Beaker who drive me form the airport back to the trail.  It was so surreal to leave PA in the morning, fly to Seattle, and be sitting around a campfire by dusk, surrounded by great friends and good vibes.

I've taken a few days off the trail before but I've learned that 2 weeks is is too much.  My feet are soft, my hips are bruised, and my whole body is sore.  With some foul weather expected in the area I've taken the opportunity to rest at the most awesome Mountain Mostel, a hiker hostel that just opened up here on the pass and a perfect place to relax away from Washington's finest storms.  If the weather man is correct it will be sunny and warm all next week, perfect for steps northbound through some of the most spectacular terrain on the trail.

Peace, Love, and Happy Trails!
~Beads

Short trip back to the REAL WORLD

Haha Konnie =-) Short posts are sent from my phone whenever I can't get to a computer to compose a full manuscript.  With the end in sight, I am back east for a short time for a family emergency.  Life doesn't always fit into a schedule.  I am super lucky to have been so far ahead of my original plan and now have plenty of time to finish the trail before the weather gets too cold, in theory.  I head back to the west coast tomorrow where 2 wonderful trail angels have offered to pick me up and drive me back to the trail, WOOHOO!!!  It is barely september yet and I have already heard a few hikers comment that fall is coming early in the Pacific NW this year... Pray to the weather gods for me.  I (only) have 320 miles to go, which will take anywhere from 2-3 weeks depending on how much I need to get my "trail legs" back.

Through Oregon I hiked 30 miles a day because the trail is fairly flat and easy on the feet.  With so little of the trail left and some of the most rugged terrain in front of me I decided to slow down and savor the last piece of my trip.  The huckleberries are just starting to ripen and they are everywhere along the trail. A great excuse to stop and graze with the bears for some yummy berries. YUMMM

Southern Washington has been absolutely wonderful.  Before Cowboy and I left Cascade Locks, we went to the Eastwind Drive-In for the biggest and tastiest $4 breakfast burrito we've ever seen.  In the brisk morning sunshine we frollicked across the Bridge of the Gods into the lush green mountains of southern WA.  Not long after skipping past the Trailhead we come across a white 5 gallon bucket with "Trail Magic" written on the lid.  We peal off the lid with smiles of anticipation to find it half full of VooDoo Donuts that were melted together in a mass of sugar that was hard to know what to do with.  Should we get our spoons out or just break off a chunk?  I may never see another bucket of donut soup again but it was sure a great welcome to WA!

Peace, Love, and Happy Trails
~Beads

Whites pass and still happy as a clam

WASHINGTON!!!!!!

Greetings from Cascade Locks, OR and the Bridge of the Gods.

From Sisters I hiked through a lot of recent burn areas from last year north of Santiam Pass, around Three Fingered Jack, and up to Jefferson Peak and Jefferson Park.  Just north of Jefferson is a fabulous little mountain resort on Olallie Lake (which is currently for sale..... someone needs to buy it and turn it into a HIKER HAVEN).  True to her name, "Trapper Keeper" kept our feet up for most of the day enjoying the company, beverages, and of course the view.  There was even another Trail Angel, Sandy, who also arrived with carbonated high fructose corn syrup (soda) and a 20# bag of snacks that we dove into head first.  I laugh every time because these are all things that I would never eat in the "real world".  But out on the trail, concentrated forms of sugar and fat are staples of our diet, something that the american diet specializes in.

Mt Hood and the Timberline Lodge were a fabulous high point of the last section.  The Timberline Lodge is a stunning historic landmark that many people spend lots of money to visit and stay for a night or more.  We set up our tents in a nearby cluster of trees and sit on the deck enjoying the sun and a few drinks just like everyone else.  Some tourists even start asking us about the trail and offer to buy us drinks as well.  Life is good indeed.

My last night before Cascade Locks I was walking along a ridge.  At about 5pm I had a view of Mt Hood behind me and it was covered in dark black clouds and the weather front was coming northward.  I hurry my pace as the thunder starts to rumble and I make it to Indian Springs just in time to set up my tent before the rain started, perfect timing.  The 15 miles into town the next morning was a beautiful stroll down Eagle Creek Trail, a favorite detour that includes Tunnel Falls where the trail literally goes behind a 200 foot waterfall.  It is a stunning sight and of course the pictures hardly do it justice.

This morning I sat at the local greasy spoon drive-in devouring a huge breakfast burrito and gazed across the river to Washington State.  It is a little overwhelming to realize that I only have 500 miles left, this journey has been absolutely incredible and I certainly don't want it to be over.   In about 3 weeks I will be at the Canadian border wondering where to walk next because there will be no more north.

Peace, Love, and Happy Trails
~beads

Three Fingered Jack

At 7000 feet above Jefferson Park

Sign at Timberline Lodge - a stormy morning

Tunnel Falls, yes that's the trail cut into cliff

The Bridge of the Gods - BAM!!

2,000 miles and Bend, OR

Hiking the PCT can be just as much about experiencing the culture and people as it is about the hiking.  Trail Towns and Trail Angels are an important aspect of the journey and learning more about amazing places here in the US.  In Ashland, hikers were invited to an incredible BBQ feast where we relaxed and got our toenails painted.  It's not everyday that we are invited with open arms into a complete stranger's house and treated like family, THANK YOU SIERRA!! 

I arrived at the rim of Crater Lake in the evening and the smoke was so dense that I literally could not see the water, it was certainly an incredible site.  That night I actually slept up on the rim and was able to catch the sunrise with much less smoke than before.  It was easy to visualize the massive caldera spread out below us.  For anyone who has never visited Crater Lake, it is certainly an incredible site to see and not to be missed. 

Further north and just before McKenzie Pass (where I hitched into town) is the Three Sisters Wilderness and some of the best wildflowers I have seen as yet.  There have been a few afternoon thunderstorms, that have also started small fires nearby, but nothing to be concerned about for the moment.  It is already getting late in the season for the fires to be allowed to get too big so we actually ran into smoke jumpers (back country firefighters that jump out of an airplane to access remote areas.  As a matter of fact, Kiddo and I were in a small thunderstorm one afternoon and there were a couple lightning strikes within a few miles of the trail.  Later that afternoon we were on the other side of the valley climbing up the side of Diamond Peak and we were able to look back at where we had come from that day.  There was a column of smoke not far from the ridge we were on that was definitely not there when we passed through.  There is always something to keep us on our toes!!!

In mid-Oregon there is the small town of Sisters and also Bend that is fairly easy to hitch-hike to.  Sisters is well known for it's small town charm, many tasty eateries, lots of local art galleries, and of course ice cream.  Bend is extremely well known for it's many local brew-pubs, which is a must for a thirsty thru-hiker.  I had the pleasure of enjoying both of these towns with 2 other hikers, Kiddo and Cowboy, making for excellent company indeed. 

Only 650 miles left and it seems like such a short time left on this awesome trail.  It will not be long before I am in Washington State where internet and cell phone coverage are scarce.  Of course I will do my best to update my progress but rest assured that I will be walking north and enjoying every moment of it.  Peace and Love and Happy Trails
~Beads

Mountain Lupine with South Sister Peak

Playing with the Locals

Fellow hiker Kiddo on trail next to a rock cairn marking a side trail to a water source

Sunrise over Crater Lake with Wizard Island in the bottom right

Morning fog while walking through an area burned 2 or 3 years ago

An original PCT marker

Ashland, OR ~ less than 950 to go!!

Four days ago I descended into Sied Valley, the second lowst elevation on the trail and also very well known as the hottest place on the trail.  Weather predictions extimated triple digits and I mentally prepared o for the inevitable...  Sure enough, my thermometer hit 101 and I was still hiking.  Unlike the desert, it doesnt really cool off in the evening since the humidity holds onto the heat.  Even if I did stop to wait out the heat, I'd be waiting until 8pm for it to even get below 90.  So I basically dunked my head in every stream I came across, which actually worked pretty well.  I also came across some amaizing trail magic at the river campground just as I emerged from the woods.  Three chairs and cold beer/soda sitting in the stream right next to a beautiful swimming hole.  On a hot day in paradise this is exactly what a hot hiker needs, how did they know?!?
The climb out of Sied Valley is also very well known as one of the most challenging ascents on the trail.  5,000 feet up in 8 miles.  And to add to the challenge, the entire mountain has been burned by wildfires multiple time in the past few years leaving the trail extremely exposed to the hot sun and extreme temperatures.  It didnt take me long to decide I was going to night hike this part and as luck would have it there was also a full moon that night.  I left town at 8pm and hiked up to 4,000 feet to sleep for a few hours, then back on the trail at 4am to finish the climb and get into the trees before the sun caught me.  It was a stunning night indeed.  31 miles later on the same day, I arrived at the sign marking the CA/OR border.  The trail register was full of extatic entries full of joy at our massive accomplishment.  We had hike 1699 miles through California.  I can attest that it is a big state indeed.  We have a little less than 1000 miles to go but first there is a celebration in order, and Ashland,OR is the perfect town to do it in.  They have an excellent hostel, food co-op, town park, authentic english pub (The Black Sheep), movie theater, lots of hiker friendly locals, and even the Shakespeare Festival Theaters with shows nearly every day and frequent opportunities for last minute cheap tickets.  I am turely blessed with finding a free place to stay in town, which makes a huge difference in being able to stay for more than just a day, THANK YOU BONNIE AND JOSH!!!  It is truely a beautiful place to relax for a couple days before embarking on the last big leg of my journey.

Oregon promises to be fairly hot with lots of mozzies in some places.  Of course there are some exciting landmarks to look forward to in OR (Crater Lake, Sisters, Mt Hood) but my heart is pulling me north to Mt Rainer, Goat Rocks, Glacier Peak, the Northern Cascades, and finaly Canada.

I wish you all the best in your adventures and I thank you for sharing in mine. 
Peace, Love, and Happy Trails
~Beads

sunrise

Welcome to Oregon!!!  End of a long day and so excited to see the sign I started to nibble =-) 

A little taste of the desert along the Hat Creek Rim

Fireweed and Mt Shasta

Terminal Geyser in Mt Lassen National Park

Etna, CA ~ my last little mountain town in Cali

Greetings all.  Boy it has been awhile since the last time I sat at a computer.  Rest asured it has been wild a and wonderful time in northern california.  Now at 1606 miles and just 100 more to go until Oregon, I simply can't believe I'm almost there from simply putting one foot in front of the other.  And I can surely attest that California is  HUGE STATE.   One of my favorite moments of the hike is reaching the top of Frog mountain and getting a glimps of Mt Shasta for the first time... this was the first mountain that was familiar to me and a proud moment to finally have some real perspective of how far I had come.  The views keep coming and it is hard to believe I've been hiking for nearly 3 months but every single day  has been a wonderful experience.  I am so incredibly lucky to have this opportunity to travel through some of the most beautiful mountains in the world every day.  To walk on the rocks and soil and hug the trees and watch the birds and be in the middle of it all.  It's a great feeling.

Etna is a another small little mountain town that loves to see hikers, and they  have everything a tired and hungry hiker could possibly want.  They have a hostel, library, coffee shop with excellent ice cream, and of course a brew pub =-) With nearly every hiker coming into town for a little rest and relaxation it is yet another valuble experience of being on the trail, sitting around a table with friends sharing stories and laughing until well after hiker midnight (9pm).  Many of these friends were perfect strangers until a mere 5 minutes before but they become family imediately, yet another example of magic on the trail.

I will soon be in Ashland and actually plan on taking a few days off to rest and take the opportunity to go to some plays at the Shakespere Festival in town.  My right ankle has been protesting a little more than normal as of late and it needs to take me to Canada so I better take the time to let it heal.

Peace, Love, and Happy Trails
~Beads

ps, sorry for no pictures yet, I'll be sure to find a comptuer in Ashland that can handle it, lol

Hit 1500 miles and crossing interstate 5 today. Castle Craigs is towering above us. The heat has made the days tough but CA is nearly done! Happy trails!

Celebrated my half way point and hit 1400 miles this morning as i watched the sunrise bounce off mt Shasta. It is a great day to be in the mountains :-)

Belden Town mile 1289

So close to half way!!! Hard to believe this adventure is nearly half over. I'm a little sad that half of the trail is behind me and still excited to see what is to come.  This heat wave has been difficult to hike through, the middle of the day is easily 90 degrees and humid with sometimes little shade.  Water has been fairly plentiful and there is nothing better than an ice cold spring up on a ridge.  This morning I started at 6,000 feet and descended into a river valley at 2,300.  Big downs mean big ups tomorrow and I'm planning on leaving at 4am to beat the heat.

Such a HUGE milestone means lots of thoughts and reflecting on being out here.  Everyone has different reasons for attempting such a massive feat and a major motivator for me is to use this trip to help others in need.  The Colville Valley Animal Snactuary is an awesome organization with a great heart and I am so excited help them in their mission to help the animals in need in Stevens County, WA.  Every little bit helps and a community working together can do big thinks.  Imagine if every person who saw this blog donated $5.... that would be HUGE.  And the best part is that when I'm done I'll be hosting an evening program in Colville to share stories from the trail and a slideshow.  If you would like me to come to your neck of the woods please feel free to email me and perhaps we can work something out, talags@gmail.com.  So click on the donation icon and help make the world a better place for the fuzzy critters of northeast washington.  Tail wags and sloppy kissed to you =-)

Peace and Love and Happy Trails
~Beads

Sierra City at mile 1198

Things are winding down now that the excitement of the sierras is becoming more of a memory.  A week ago we spend the day around 8 to 9,000 feet and now the ridges are at 7,000.  The temperatures down in the valleys are reaching 100 degrees and the elevation is keeping our experience a little cooler for the time being.  The few snow patches that are hanging onto northern faces are becoming less common and the tree-less rocky ridges are becoming more rounded and covered in vegetation.  The various varieties of blood sucking insects are becoming more varied, prevalent, and aggressive.  And the actual trail is more soft dirt and pine needles than ankle twisting cobbles.  We are all sad to see the sierras go but equally eager to continue our hike northward and slowly yet surely work on our goal, Canada.  Our legs are strong, our gear is well used, and our stride is confident.  It is truly a beautiful time to be walking in the woods.

Of course we are not the only residents of the forest.  I have seen one cinnamon colored black bear who was super cute.  I got to watch him for a couple seconds as he strolled down the trail in my direction before he realized I was there and ran away.  Of course the whole thing happened so fast I barely got the zipper open on my camera case let alone able to take a picture.  Last night was also a night to remember.  Not long after dusk I was awoken buy one of the loudest noises I've even heard in the woods.  It was insane.  I can only describe it as a crashing and snapping sound that could have only been caused by a very large animal, most likely a bear but possibly a Sasquatch.  Bears can often make quite a ruckus tearing apart trees and logs looking for grubs but this was simply a whole other level of destructive sounding behavior.  The only thing that separated me from this beast was a thin wall of my tent and a hope he was finding what he was looking for.  Through the entire event, that only lasted maybe a minute, I was never able to get him in the light of my headlamp.  I guess I'll never know how close I really came to seeing a Squatch!

One of the best parts of the trail are the people I meet and the little trail towns that welcome hikers with open arms.  Sometimes there are people that make an extra effort to helping hikers and they become an important part of our community, and our family.  We call them "Trail Angels".  Here in Sierra City (no more than 2 blocks long) there is a wonderful couple, Margaret and Bill, who own the Red Moose Inn and invite hikers to camp in their back yard, take a shower, do laundry, and rest in the air conditioning all for free.  They cook a family style dinner for a reasonable price, serve breakfast early so we can leave and try to beat the heat up the hill, and have strict rules against helping around the house.  Our job is to rest and relax, a hiker's dream.  These angels are well known in the guidebook and we looks forward to visiting days ahead of actually getting here.  There are a few more to come but they tend to be more spread out the further north we get.  It is always a treat to enjoy a historic mountain town and not have to pay lots of $ for a room like a tourist.  Many of the businesses still benefit from our presence in other ways like food and ice cream (it's own food group of course).


Peace, Love, and Happy Trails
~Beads

sunrise over Lake Tahoe

Lake Tahoe, CA ~1100 miles

WOWWWWWW SO it has been nearly 400 miles since I last sat at a computer.  Since Kennedy Meadows I climbed up into the High Sierra Mountains, summited Mt. Whitney (highest point in the lower 48 states at 14,509 feet), traversed some of the most wild parts of the trail through Kings Canyon and Yosemite National Parks, was hit by one short and sweet snow storm and one not-so-short-and-sweet high altitude storm, and had my birthday at Tuolumne Meadows with a good climber buddy of mine, Greg.  I now sit at the public library in South Lake Tahoe and out the window is a beautiful sunny day with windsurfers and paddleboarders out on the lake enjoying these beautiful mountains.

The High Sierras in a mountain range that was carved out by glaciers and seemed to go on forever.  Every high mountain pass I would climb up to (the highest being Forester Pass at 13,208 feet) there would be more stunning glacial valleys and snowy jagged peaks stretching north as far I could see. It seemed to never end, in a good way of course, lol.  The high alpine ecosystem is home to Yellow-bellied Marmots and Ground Squirrels and even Ravens.  The wildflowers bloom the moment the snow melts because the growing season is so incredibly short.  The glaciers left behind huge rounded valleys and many alpine lakes with the clearest snow-melt water you've ever seen.  And of course the wild mountain trout are plentiful: brookies, rainbows, goldens, and browns. Coming down off Forester Pass I stopped for lunch with a few other hikers and we watched as a front rolled up the valley in our direction.  Sure enough the temp dropped from 61 to 40 in 15 minutes as the wind kicked up and the precipitation was indeed snow.  I was very happy to dawn all of my foul weather gear (including rain shell mittens) and be toasty warm as I strolled down the valley to lower elevation.  Some other hikers had decided not to bring rain pants or gloves and were forced to set up camp and wait out the storm in their tent, they missed an incredible experience.  When the storm was clearing I actually just sat on an overlook and watched the clouds play on the high mountain peaks.

I can't say it enough, every day is incredible.

At Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park, I was lucky enough to catch up with a climber friend I had met previously in Idewilde.  He was up there climbing some of the best stuff in the country and I was happy to spend an evening around the campfire with good spirited climbing folk.  For my birthday I simply took a "zero" day (no miles hiked) and took advantage of the shuttle bus to go to various viewpoints and learn about local flora and fauna at the visitor center.  I also "yogi"ed which is a term we used for striking up conversation with tourists/locals and getting food or rides or a place to stay.  It usually happens with out much intent to be honest.  Throughout the day I got chocolate, wine, beer, chips, humus, more chocolate, and at the end of the day a traveling couple told me about a free bluegrass concert just down the hill later and offered a ride.  Sure enough, on my 29th birthday I was eating chocolate cake and dancing my heart out to a fabulous bluegrass concert.  Not a bad day indeed.

From TM I set out for 154 miles to Echo Lake (on the trail) and Tahoe (a short hitch down the mountain).  About 3 days in some clouds rolled in but the sun kept making its way through so I decided to do  10 mile long ridge walk that is extremely exposed and nearly 11,000 feet.  The wind was intense and it also decided to snow on me  periodically but all in all it was a great little section just before Sonora Pass.  That night the storm decided to get serious.  The snow started to stick up at higher elevations as I was luckily heading off the pass.  But down below the wind kept blowing and the rain kept coming..... for 2 solid days.  Literally everything in my pack (except my sleeping bag) was soaked by the time the sun finally decided to come out.  My feet were so swollen from walking in wet shoes for so long they hardly fit in my shoes.  At the end of the 2 days I came to a road crossing that led to a small mountain town Markleeville.  I stuck my thumb out and started dreaming of a steaming hot shower, warm dry bed, and maybe even a whole pizza all to myself. It was everything I hoped and dreamed.  Sandy at the cafe/motel was an absolute angel and before I knew it the wet, damp, cold mountain seemed to be just a dream.

My time is up and of course this computer doesnt seem to like loading pictures.  I'm still having the time of my life and loving every minute of my adventures.  THANK YOU to EVERYONE who has made this journey possible =-)

Peace and Love and Happy Trails
Beads

Mt. Whitney on a bluebird day

classic glacially carved valley

happy girl at 12,000 feet

Evolution Valley

clouds dancing on the mountains after the storm

Made it thru the most amazing part of the sierra's. 902 miles behind and still going strong. More to come when i actually find acomputer. Peace and love

Kennedy Meadows - Gateway to the High Sierras

Greetings from mile 702.  This is my first major milestone and everyone is certainly excited to be heading up to the cool mountain air of the High Sierra Mountains.  It is that time in our hike where we get rid of our 6L water reservoirs, long sleeve sun shirts, and super light hiking shoes.  Now we add a bear proof food container, down jacket, ice ax, and small crampons fit for hiking boots.  It will be over 200 miles before we will see another paved road, the longest stretch of road-less trail in the country.  I will be carrying 11 days worth of food and my pack weighs a hefty 42 pounds.  The PCT will take us over numerous high alpine passes even over 13,000 feet that still have huge snow fields hanging on the north side for us to glissade down (we slide on our shoes kind of like skiing without the skiis).  We will be passing very near to Mt Whitney and the majority of hikers (myself included) choose to take an extra day to hike up to the highest mountain in the lower 42 states.  After all, we are in the best shape of our lives and it would be silly to pass up such a great opportunity. This year the snowfall is very low so many hiker are not even bringing their ice ax (used for emergency stopping if you are sliding uncontrollably down a snowfield).  It is the perfect reward of high alpine vistas and brisk mountain air after the desert.  A thunderstorm is currently rolling down the valley, our first rain since the San Jacintos at mile 165.  Welcome to the real mountains :-)

Kennedy Meadows is a tiny little mountain "town" made up of a few houses, a General Store, and a Trail Angel's house.  Tom is a trail hippy at heart and has been welcoming hikers for many years to camp in his yard.  He has computers for us to use the internet and even an outside movie theater to watch movies when it gets dark.  Truly a great place to relax before our big push up into the Sierras.

For anyone watching the news, there are numerous wildfires effecting the PCT hikers to the south of where I am.  Between Agua Dulce and Green Valley the trail has been closed because of wildfires.  Many hikers are skipping around the section to keep moving north.  There really isn't much to do if a fire is in your way other than to go around it and we will have plenty of opportunity to interact with forest fires in northern california for sure.

Happy Trail,
~beads

windmills and trusty shoes

before it got too windy to wear head gear

Greetings from Tehachapi, CA, 558 miles behind me and I only have to do it 4 more times, haha.  This stretch has been a whirlwind of hikers, friendly places to relax, little water, and windmills.  And where there are windmills you can be sure to find wind.  Two days ago we crossed the desert and literally walked on the aqueduct that supplies LA with much of their water.  Yes, we were walking on water and couldn't get a drop to drink as it was completely sealed off.  The aqueduct went on for 17 flat and windy miles as we felt like we were going no-where fast and prayed for a bicycle or something to take advantage of our tail wind.  Then yesterday can be described as nothing short of epic.  The wind shifted direction and kicked up gigantic dust storms in the valley and I felt sorry for my friends behind me down in the valley.  We thought we were safe up on the ridge but as we climbed we realized we could not be further from the truth.  The wind whipped around the ridge at speeds that quite literally knocked us off our feet.  At times it took all my energy and focus to stand my ground and not be thrown down like a sack of potatoes.  At times I was on all fours and I later found out the winds had been clocked at 70-75 mph on the ridges; my sunglasses became important eye protection indeed.  The wind was so loud I couldn't hear myself if I yelled as loud as I could.  I was only glad that it was 50 degrees and dry instead of the same wind in 30 degrees and sleet.  This is the "windy" season down here in southern california and the storm that blew in was not expected by the weathermen but seems to be hanging around for a few days, it seems I'll be going back out on the trail and just hope the next ridge isn't quite the wind storm that we just crawled through.  I will say that whoever put these wind generators here knows exactly what there are doing, lol.

As with most places that we need to re-supply, the trail does not actually go through town.  We emerge from the trail onto a paved road where cars and trucks zoom by on their way to wherever they are going.  Our guidebook is an excellent reference for which way to go to a town and what resources can be found there.  Of course the hiker staples are good food with huge portions (all you can eat is a bonus), post office, laundry, shower, and internet. So I stick out my thumb and hope for the best.  Sure enough, within 10 minutes a local guy who works on the windfarms pulls over and of course I pick his brain about the turbines on the way into town.  Even at normal driving speeds it seems odd after many days of 3 mph.  Tehachapi, like many trail towns, has everything a hiker could want, even a Starbucks for that Chai Latte I've been fantasizing about for those last 8 windy miles.  The Post Office was a little bit of a hike out of town but considering we are walking to Canada, what's an extra mile in the grand scheme of things?  I went to pick up my re-supply package at the post office and was sitting off to the side going through the classic hiker ritual of spreading out all of my worldly possessions and food for the next section to be sure I have everything I need.  Meanwhile, every other person walking by stopped to say hi and talk about the trail, ask how things were going, and ask if I needed anything.  It was incredible.  Within a half hour I had 3 people offer for me to take a shower at their place and use the computer.  As far as trail towns go, this is certainly a place to remember.  They even have a movie theater downtown to indulge in the perfect vegetative activity.  After an incredible evening of good conversation, excellent food, Fast and Furious (6?), and comfy couch to sleep, it is time to brave the winds and head back to the trail.  Tina and Greg are now officially Trail Angels and THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING.

I see I've been inconsistent on my first person references.  Apologies, english is not my forte.  When I use "we" I'm simply referring to myself as well as the other thru hikers out here also traveling the journey from mexico to canada.  I meet new people every day and have gotten to know quite a few that have been traveling at roughly the same pace and so we are going through similar experiences together.  I am still hiking alone and don't find myself necessarily following others but I certainly end up spending quite a bit of time with other hikers as we wait out  the heat of the day or camp near the same water source.  Just to name a few: Hermes, Lotus, Chad, Pinko, Rafiki, Sansei, Track Meat, Sparkles, Peter Pan, Sagitar, Dragonfly, Beaker, Tortuga, Wild Child, Minor, Whispers, Walkie Talkie, Gummy Bear, MeHap, Egg, Ole, Aloha, Toots Magoots, Tears for Beers, Scones, Doodles, Out'n'About, Sentinal, Sarge, Hooligan, and Rum Monkey.  There are many, many more of course.  But when I say "we" I'm referring to my new family of friends from all walks of the earth all crazy enough to be out here on the same journey on the PCT.  

In 6 days I expect to be at the front door to the High Sierras, Kennedy Meadows.  We are all incredibly excited to be a mere 135 miles from a major high point (both elevation and attraction) of the trail.  We have worked hard to get here and have a lot more work ahead of us but it is so incredibly worth it in every possible way.  

Peace and Love and Happy Trails

~Beads

huge wind turbine

the small section of aqueduct not covered. flat for as far as you can see!

sunset on a pass with wildflowers

Agua Dulce, CA

Greetings friends, 454 miles and counting.  It's hard to believe all of the awesome experiences I've had only happened in a month, and I've got 4 more to go so plenty of time for more adventures.  This town is not unlike the others we've descended upon.  Banners in front of businesses greet PCT Hikers and barely a block into town someone stops to ask if we need a ride anywhere.  This time of year it is tricky because anywhere under 3,000 is a balmy 95 degrees through most of the day, not hiking weather.  Despite the heat and odd sleeping hours, the landscape is still nothing short of awesome.  Rock outcrops dominate the horizon while sage and cactus cover the searing ground.  Every ridge brings something new.

We just went through the area northeast of LA that was burned in a massive fire in 2009, the Station Fire.  We passed by a memorial for 16 firefighters who lost their lives and the evidence was all around us.  No shade to speak of and any tree still standing is black with char.  Fire is a natural part of the ecology for many of the ecosystems of the west and the desert is no exception.  There are plants specifically adapted to take advantage of a fire.  The Poodle Dog Bush (no idea what the scientific name is) happens to be one of them and is also a particularly unfriendly plant.  The seed pod lies waiting for a fire and once the landscape is cleared of any competitors the plant bursts open in a frenzy of green that just so happens to be incredibly toxic.  No hiker wants to find out if they are allergic to it so many walk the dirt roads for >30 miles.  Our best information says it is worse than a bad case of poison oak and the trail is not the time to go to the ER.

Now happily away from the Poodle Dog Bush we walk north in search of the High Sierras with promise of ample water and shade in another 250 miles.  But for now the desert is a beautiful surprise.

Happy Trails
~beads

365 miles

Greetings from the trail....  Every turn is another exciting view or flower or critter scurrying out of the way. Three days ago I took my afternoon ciesta at Deep Creek Hot Springs and the name does not lie.  These were absolutely incredible and exactly what the doctor ordered after 3 days of 25 miles in a row.  My feet seem to be holding up nicely but of course toting a backpack for a marathon distance is always a challenge when the hot springs are begging us to stay just a little while longer.  We have had some incredible climbs, just yesterday we climbed from 3,000 feet up to 8,000 and above the clouds, which is always a treat. 

Not everyone is having such a great time of course.  I have already heard of 2 friends I had just met weeks ago head for home.  At this point, stress injuries are the biggest factor.  A heavy pack and hot days are a prefect recipe for blisters and strained muscles.  The constant pain of blisters can quickly break down moral despite the best efforts from friends to just take time off for them to heal and come back.  The trail is a daunting task if one tries to think about the entire thing at one time and it is certainly overwhelming to have to make that decision.  I certainly wish Bug and Jersey all the best in their journey.  That's one big lesson of the trail: it's not about getting to the end that matters, it's about getting out there and experiencing the space in the middle that keeps us going.

Currently I am in the little mountain town of Wrightwood, CA and we will be following the trail northward again.  Our lovely cool mountains will soon dwindle and the hot, flat desert will be between us and the High Sierras.  But for now we are very much enjoying the cool weather and friendly locals each day has brought us.

Happy Trails

~beads

Critters

Greetings from Big Bear Lake Hostel near mile 265.  One tenth of the way, YAY.  Small steps goes a long way.

The trail has taken us up and over some of the most incredible mountains I never knew existed in the desert.  11,000 foot peaks loom over us as we traverse 9,000 foot ridges of chaparral forests with blistering desert below us.  The best hiking happens at dawn and dusk so many of us have gotten very comfortable with "cowboy" camping.  No tent, just roll out your mat and sleep under the stars.  Obviously it is a good idea to take food out of the pack so curious rodents dont chew holes in unwanted places.  Ants also have a habit of exploring gear for bits of food.  What we quickly learned is that animals also like the salt on our cloths and even our shoes if left out.  The desert is deserted during the day, hence the name.  At night, however, is when the desert comes alive.  Lizards catch moths, tarantulas are out prowling, scorpions even scuddle under our sleeping pad in search of warmth.  The snakes are out at night since that's when the mice are out as well.  I have yet to be startled by these critters while sleeping but until then this cowboy camping style is really nice as long as my imagination doesnt get the best of me.
Happy Trails
~BEADS

me playing with the locals

road block

tarantula.... not alive =-(

cute little black lizard dude

my first rattler encounter, boy was he pretty

Extremes

25 miles ago I climbed into another world.  So far the scenery has been a toasty combination of burning sun and little wind and shade.  But just north of the Pines-to-Palms highway we ascended into the San Jacintos Mountains where pine trees and thousand foot cliffs of solid white granite dominate the landscape.  I found myself at 8,000 feet with the most stunning surroundings that certainly even rival the White Mountains back east.  Incredible. There is a small mountain town that many hiker use for re-supply.  Idyllwild welcomes hikers with open arms and an enthusiasm I have not yet come across anywhere else.  Simply walking on the sidewalk in town with a pack on, every other car will slow down and offer a ride. 

The night before I was heading into town turned out to be 34 degrees with persistent wind that chilled everything it touched.  Even in a fairly sheltered valley near the gap it was difficult to stay warm with my desert gear.  Sure enough a frigid storm has been rolling through and many hikers are using it as a welcome break in a lovely little town.  40 degrees and rainy in town means it is 30 and snowing up above, not the time to be heading north.

A hikers' feet are perhaps the most important part of our bodies.  Hiking >20 miles a day certainly reveals any weaknesses and nowhere is that more thru than in our feet.  The shoes we use look more like running shoes with more aggressive traction than actual hiking boots.  The reason for this is trying to balance lightweight gear with function.  Furthermore, our feet literally grow so the size of shoe that a hiker starts with is hardly going to fit in a couple weeks.  The bones obviously don't actually get longer but the muscles and tendons stretch and spread out as our feet get stronger.  Some hikers go up as much as 2 sizes in the course of their hike.  Many hikers try to anticipate this and start with big shoes.  I started with shoes that were 1 size bigger and comparable to the size I ended up with on the Appalachian Trail.  Turns out that still wasn't enough, the desert heat may be a factor as well.  Luckily there is a great little outfitter in town that caters to thru-hikers in anticipation of the hundreds coming through needing to change their foot gear.  A small miscalculation can mean big injuries down the trail.  

Happy Trails
~BEADS

109 miles... and only ~2550 to go.......

Greetings from beautiful Warner Springs in southern California.  For anyone who ever thought there arent big mountains in southern Cali, Ive learned this is far from true.  So far Ive had a 4,000 foot climb in a single day as well as an incredibly exposed and rocky 3,000 foot climb that I decided to do in the evening to avoid the heat.  The path was bairly a foot wide and washed out in places on such a steep slope that anything lost over the side to the wind would surely never be recovered.  There are peaks over 10,000 feet in the distance and awesome, ruggid mountains all around us. This is certainly no boring desert.

 

 

The heat has been a challange but most of us have adopted the "Ciesta" style of hiking which has been quite a treat.  The day starts before first light with the moon revealing the surrounding landscape, hiking begins with a headlamp and continues through dawn until the sun gets too high.  Hopefully around that time we are nearby to a reasonable amount of shade to hide in through the heat of the day, and if we're lucky even a water source.  We nap, read, play cards, write in our journals, and even cook dinner.  Once the heat breaks (anywhere from 3-6) we head out to hike into the night.  Night hiking is incredible.  Lots of creatures are out like crickets chirping, geckos catching bugs, coyotes yipping on a nearby ridge.  Before the moon comes out the stars are at their best in the dry desert air and the horizon is all I can make out of my surroundings other than my little 10 foot circle of light.  Sometimes I'll glimps the light of another hiker on the trail far ahead.  Once the moon rises the ridges and craigs come to life.  And the whole time it is a lovely 65 degrees.  That is until the sun comes up again =-)

Peace and Love

~BEADS